What aperitivo is
Aperitivo is the early-evening drink before dinner, meant to open the appetite rather than fill you up. It usually runs from about 6 pm to 8 or 9 pm. In many bars it comes with something small to eat; a bigger buffet version, where the snacks become a light dinner, is called apericena.
What to order
Aperitivo drinks lean bitter and not too strong. In Florence the obvious choice is the Negroni, which was invented here (see the Negroni’s Florentine story). The Americano, its lighter, older relative, is Campari and sweet vermouth topped with soda. A Spritz or a dry Martini are just as much at home.
When to go
Aim for 6 to 8 pm. Dinner in Florence tends to start at 8 or later, so an aperitivo fits neatly in between, and it is the best time to find a seat before the bars fill up later in the evening.
Aperitivo in the Oltrarno
Mysterium opens at 6 pm every day except Tuesday, at Borgo San Frediano 81/83R. Our back bar is built around gin, mezcal and martini-style drinks, which is a natural fit for the aperitivo hour; then dinner is a short walk away in the trattorias of San Frediano and Santo Spirito. See the cocktails.
