Sunset: Piazzale Michelangelo
Start on the terrace of Piazzale Michelangelo, above the city on the south bank, about half an hour before sunset. The whole of Florence is laid out in front of you: the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio’s tower and the bridges over the Arno turning gold.
Dusk: down through San Niccolò
Walk down the steps and ramps to San Niccolò and its old gate on the river. The little streets here are a good place for a first glass if you want one.
Evening: along the Oltrarno
Follow the south bank west past Ponte Vecchio along Borgo San Jacopo. From Porta San Niccolò to Mysterium is about 24 minutes on foot in all, and it is one of the nicest walks in the city as the lights come on.
Dinner: Santo Spirito and San Frediano
The streets around Piazza Santo Spirito and Piazza del Carmine are full of trattorias. Florentines eat at 8 or later; booking ahead helps at weekends.
Last call: Mysterium
End the night at Borgo San Frediano 81/83R, under a fifteenth-century vault, red neon and crystal chandeliers. We are open until 1 am, and until 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays; closed Tuesdays. How to find us.
